I am used to hear people say things like: “You don’t do shit all day long”.
Until a year ago I always felt the need of justifying myself every time I was traveling somewhere.
“I am a freelance, so I can work wherever I am”.
“Is that a real job?”
It is hard to explain that in two hours at home you manage to do the same amount of work that you do in 8 hours at the office, considering lunch and cigarette breaks, as well as meetings and things like that.
It is hard to explain that my whole income depends on me, so yes! I actually do work.
It is too hard to explain all that and I gave up doing it.
“You are so lucky!”
-Well, yes! I am.
Considering that I have an invisible rich boyfriend that pays for all my travels, I am lucky enough to be always around.
Since I fell in love with surfing, I basically have an open relationship with RyanAir.
I have been writing a lot about this topic on my blog; sometimes I feel like I wrote too much about it, but some other times I feel like it is never enough.
Writing about the magic of buying a surfboard, because it feels good to invest on your passions.
And I really think that surfing is therapeutic because it challenges your patience, your strength, your resistance, and the ability of spending so much time with the sea.
I am still a beginner, and I think that it will take a while before I actually manage to make it to the next level. But I don’t care.
I don’t care if people think that they are better than me and they all feel like they can tell me what to do and whatnot. And I don’t care if people make fun of me because I use a softboard – real surfers don’t use softboards. Well, I am not a real surfer (yet). One day I will get stronger and I will use that same foam board to hit all those who have intentionally made fun of me.
Surfing is therapeutic also because it teaches you how to deal with some “genius” that inspire me violent reactions.
And then there are the waves. They all look the same but they are not. They are all different and it takes a while before you manage to talk to them. I like them because you can’t understand them straight away; you need to study them in order to surf them. But when it happens you two start flirting like crazy.
I like waves because at first sight they are hard to get; I mean, we were born to walk on the floor not no the water. But then you start learning how to communicate with them as you spend hours looking at them. You see how they carry other surfers away. You see how they tongue kiss them so strongly. And when you understand that you also want to be tongue kissed by them – because it feels so good – then you start focusing and eventually you end up understanding.
“You are so lucky, you don’t do shit all day long!”.
If they only knew what waves do to me.
If they only knew that some people go to the therapist while some others go to the sea.
A special thanks to Damian and to Escuela de Surf La Curva for teaching me to understand waves and stand on the surfboard.
Thanks Chiara Giannoni for taking such great pictures of me and my friends.